Mumbai

The 1924 basalt arch on the waterfront is Mumbai's defining image — built to commemorate King George V's visit, it was later the ceremonial exit point of the last British troops leaving India in 1948. The adjacent Taj Mahal Palace Hotel is a monument in its own right.

A 1-hour ferry from the Gateway across the harbour to Elephanta Island — rock-cut caves from the 5th–8th century with the finest Shiva sculpture in India, including the 6m Trimurti (Maheshmurti) with three faces. UNESCO World Heritage Site.

Chhatrapati Shivaji Maharaj Terminus (formerly Victoria Terminus) is the world's most ornate working railway station — a UNESCO-listed Victorian Gothic masterpiece that handles 4 million passengers daily. The exterior is best at sunset; the main hall at morning rush is overwhelming.

The world's most productive urban settlement — Dharavi generates over $1 billion annually from leather, recycling, pottery, and food industries. A guided tour through responsible operators (Reality Tours) shows the enterprise and community, not poverty tourism.

The greatest street food experience in India — the street comes alive after sunset during Ramadan (and functions all year) with Mughlai kebabs, haleem, malpua, and nihari from restaurants unchanged since the 1940s. Suleiman Usman Mithaiwala for mawa jalebi.

The 3km seafront promenade — "The Queen's Necklace" when seen from Malabar Hill at night — is Mumbai's great democratic public space. Buy cutting chai from a stall, watch the city decompress, and end at Chowpatty Beach for bhel puri and pav bhaji.